Q&A with Wood Finishing Expert布鲁斯·约翰逊

Not necessarily. A sanding sealer is a coat of finish specifically designed to dry very quickly and sand very easily. You see sanding sealers used the most on floors, because a contractor or a do-it-yourselfer can put down a coat of sanding sealer, and it's going to dry quickly and sand more easily than if you had just put on your first coat ofMinwax®快干聚urethane要么Minwax®Polyurethane for Floors。换句话说，当时间是最重要的，一个打磨填就派上用场了。但是，如果你不想使用打磨封口机，它不是完全可以接受的。你会直接将您完成的第一层的木材。相反，在短短的几个小时的事干燥的，通常你必须让它干燥过夜，回来的第二天，沙淡然，并把您完成的第二层。所以它的时间与在打磨填的可以投资的所有问题。

Getting a wood filler that will accept the stain either wet or dry has always been a challenge. You want a material that is going to dry extremely hard, yet at the same time after it's dry, you want it to accept the stain. I useMinwax®Stainable Wood Filler因为我发现，它涉及最接近的，给我来匹配它的最佳机会。它的干燥后，可染Minwax木材填料具有天然木材的用暗黄的颜色。它将比任何我曾经合作过的其他合成填料更容易被接受的一个污点。

这并不意味着你不需要做一些experimentation. One of the things I always keep in my shop are those inexpensive artist brushes. While the Stainable Wood Filler accepts the stain, it may not always accept it identical to the pores of the wood immediately surrounding it. So take your artist brush with a little bit of stain, dab it on there, let it sit on the filler for 5 or 6 minutes to soak in deep enough, wipe it off with the end of a cotton swab, and then check your color. If it isn't quite right, you can always add a little bit more color to it. That's the great thing about the Minwax® oil-based stains - they give you the ability to work with them whether you're mixing them together on top of the surface or even before you apply them, but they'll do a lot better than any of the homemade remedies I've ever messed with.

不要觉得不好，因为我已经看到了由专业木工制作帧的差距 - 和我。所不同的是，专业人士都知道如何掩饰其斜接缝的间隙。我更喜欢使用Minwax®Stainable Wood Fillerrather than the old sawdust-and-glue mixture, simply because the Stainable Wood Filler dries quickly, is easy to sand and accepts a stain better than anything else I have tried. To help the patch blend into the surrounding wood, be careful not to overspread the filler.

枫，不管是硬枫木，软枫木，或雀眼枫木，是一个伟大的木材，但所有枫有一个共同的特点：它吸收不均匀色斑。我的第一个建议是，如果你没有污点枫树，让它去自然。这是一个美丽的木材。只要把任何一对夫妇的大衣Minwax®擦涂聚或刷上Minwax®快干聚要么Minwax®Polycrylic。It looks great with just a clear finish over it.

If you do have to stain it, I would strongly recommend two coats ofMinwax®Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner。This is going to help even out the absorption of the stain. Apply Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner and let it soak in for 5 to 15 minutes (usually 15 minutes), removing any excess. Apply second coat accordingly.

最后，不要试着让枫样子核桃或其他一些深色木材。如果你想有一个核桃书柜或胡桃木茶几，购买核桃。If you are going to stain maple, stain it with one of the lighter colors - Minwax® Golden Pecan or Minwax® Golden Oak. Lighter colors won't tend to show the blotchiness as much.

Yes, it is just trial and error. One of the things I recommend if you're doing much matching is to buy several of the smallest sized cans of stains you can find. One of the great things aboutMinwax®木器涂料™油性污渍是，它是在26种颜色可供选择。美妙的事情是，你可以将它们混合在一起创造了许多不同的颜色。先从你的色卡。尽量找一个来尽可能接近并将其应用到你的木材。它比较旧的结束，决定是否需要更红一点或一点点褐色等，然后​​应用更多的污点。

您可以在一个以上的方式染色拌在一起。一种方法是将一种染色，让它晾干，然后应用最重要的是另一个污点。问题是，在粮食紧张的木材，经过染色的两层或三层，木材不会有很大的空间来吸收更多的污点。我一般喜欢做的是我的污渍以液态形式混合在一起。记住用塑料量匙和杯子跟踪多少你在将每个污点的。一旦你打在你喜欢的颜色，写公式下来，给它一个名字，这样你就可以回去和重复它，只要你想要的。

一个提示，匹配颜色：请注意，该面漆是要增添色彩的一点点好，特别是油基之一。为了获得真正的色彩搭配，它不只是一个看它时，你有你的存在染色问题。你必须让你的污渍干燥，可采取气雾剂，雾完成超过一点点，和比较，为在你要匹配 - 因为完成你戴上的那最后一点是要影响颜色为好。

让我们与他们的相似之处开始。两者都是油性污渍，这意味着它们含有矿物烈酒和清理用矿物油精。Minwax®木器涂料™penetrating stains, available in 26 colors, tend to penetrate deeper into the wood.Minwax®凝胶染色s, available in 10 different colors, are formulated a little bit differently. There is actually a gelatin appearance to them and when you first open up the lid of the can, it's a little bit shocking to see this gelatin jiggling around in there. Stirring is essential with all stains - oil, water, gel, regular - because the pigments tend to settle to the bottom of the can while sitting on the shelf. So stir it up very well, and the gelatin will become a little bit more liquid in form, but it will still maintain that gel-like consistency.

One reason why Minwax® came up with Gel Stain is that if you're working on a vertical surface, such as paneling in a room or doors, it's just not practical to take them all down and put them on sawhorses. If you have to work on a vertical surface and if you were using the standard Minwax® Wood Finish™ penetrating stain, the thinner of the two, you'd be chasing that stain as it ran ahead of your brush. If you weren't fast enough you could actually get some slightly darker streaks from the stain that ran down the wood instead of actually penetrating into the wood.

If you use Minwax® Gel Stain, it's going to cling to the wood better and you're not going to have it running down ahead of your brush or ahead of your rag, so your staining is going to be more consistent. Also, if you're doing a metal or a fiberglass door, Minwax® Gel Stain is formulated to adhere to these non-porous surfaces, whereas Minwax® Wood Finish™ stain would wipe right off. Generally, if it's a vertical surface, or if it's a surface that doesn't have any pores to it, those would be when you want to use Minwax® Gel Stains. So you aren't limited, you can use Minwax® Gel Stain in several different applications, even though it's especially designed for vertical application.

I had this situation - I had the glove on one hand but I didn't have the glove on the other hand, and sure enough that's where all the stain ended up. I just came in and gave it a good scrubbing with soap and water. It takes a few extra seconds - it doesn't just instantly rub right off with warm water and soap. Squirt a little liquid hand soap and it will soften up the stain and just come right off the skin. I do tell people that even though we think about water-based as no fumes, easy clean-up, it's still a good idea to wear gloves. These stains are designed to be absorbed, and the stain doesn't know the difference between trying to absorb into your skin versus trying to absorb into your project, so it's always a good idea to wear gloves but it's not a major concern. It's going to wash off pretty easily.

What you're describing is "bleed-back." It is not uncommon with open-pored woods, such as oak, ash and mahogany, especially on vertical surfaces. The larger pores in these woods act as containers for the stain, which collects in the pores, but does not dry. Instead, it gradually seeps out of the pores, leaving the spots you so aptly described. The solution is simple: After you have wiped off the excess stain, take a clean bristle brush and lightly brush the tips of the bristles over the wood. As you will see, the bristle tips will pull the extra stain out of these deep pores. You can then remove the last of the excess stain with a clean cloth.

There are three sources of the air bubbles. The first one can be in your brush. If you're using a foam brush to put on a finish, you are actually putting air into the finish, so eliminate foam brushes from your list of tools for applying a finish. Foam brushes are great for applying a stain, but you need to go to a bristle brush for applying a finish.

If you do have to stain it, I would strongly recommend two coats of Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. This is going to help even out the absorption of the stain. Apply Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner and let it soak in for 5 to 15 minutes (usually 15 minutes), removing any excess. Apply second coat accordingly.

最后，不要试着让枫样子核桃或其他一些深色木材。如果你想有一个核桃书柜或胡桃木茶几，购买核桃。Minwax®木器涂料金山核桃或Minwax®木器涂料金橡树 - 如果你要染色枫木，用浅色的一个会留下污点。较浅的颜色不会倾向于显示色斑一样多。

威斯康辛州还是佛罗里达,水分,风,and sunlight all add up to windowsills taking a lot of abuse. We're talking about the interior windowsills here. If you put on standardMinwax®快干聚urethane，阳光的透过玻璃，紫外线，和偶尔的水分来的组合是要戴列于窗台聚氨酯比在房子的内部的其余部分更快。因此，当涉及到窗台，我一般从标准Minwax®快干聚氨酯切换到另一个名为Minwax®产品Helmsman® Spar Urethane。Helmsman®是内部或外部晶石聚氨酯，这意味着它有更多的耐紫外线和水分，这是一个伟大的完成放在窗台上，因为在它和你做板的其余部分之间的外观没有区别在常规聚氨酯。

樱桃是我最喜欢的木材之一。它实际上属于同一类别枫在樱桃不吸收的污点非常好。与枫木，樱桃木有了这样一个美丽的颜色偏红它实际上变成因为它的年龄更倾向于褐色。通常情况下，人们不染色樱桃 - 他们只是让自然的色彩才能通过。我最喜欢的樱桃饰面是手擦完成。在这种情况下，由于该表要由儿童使用，我建议Minwax®擦涂聚。You get that hand rubbed effect and the polyurethane that is added by the Minwax® Wipe-On Poly gives it more durability than your other rub-on oils, such as tung oil or antique oil. Both of them are great oils, but since this is going to receive some extra hard use, I would go with the Minwax® Wipe-On Poly. It gives you the hand rubbed look, yet you get the same durability and protection as you would with polyurethanes.

这不是一个选择一个或其他的问题using only that one, because that limits you. You should pick whether you're going to use oil-based or water-based with other criteria in mind than just whether you think you're an oil-based person or a water-based person. For instance, if you're working inside and you can't ventilate very well (during winter time, for example), then the water-based has the advantage that you don't have to ventilate. When you're working on large surfaces though, and you need a good long working time, I prefer the oil-based finishes because the stains don't set up as quickly. You get about 15 minutes of working time with the oil-based stains before you have to wipe them off compared to 1 to 3 minutes with the water-based stains. So in addition to whether or not you can ventilate, the size of your project is going to have some determination on which one you choose.

颜色也成为一个因素。如果你想用的一个Minwax®Water Based Wood Staincolors, then I would go with a water-based clear protective finish such asMinwax®Polycrylic™ Protective Finish, over the top of it. So let your projects and your circumstances help you determine whether or not you're going to use water-based or oil-based and don't limit yourself to using one or the other on every one of your projects.

嗯，这就像在同一个家庭有两个兄弟。他们都将会给你很好的保护作用，但应用程序是完全不同的。让我们在更传统的画笔开始。通常与上一刷Minwax®快干聚urethane，大部分的项目，无论是家具，家具未完成，或机柜中，将要求申请完成的两件衣服，因为你是在较厚的外套铺设比你，如果你只是擦它。我想给每个涂层干燥过夜。一，你可以完成做最坏的错误是把一个第二层之前的第一道涂层完全干燥。终点取决于空气，有一些是蒸发的推移，所以如果你把第二层在未完全干燥第一层的顶部，你切断空气和第一层永远不会完全硬化。所以，你总是要确保你把在那里的第二涂层之前你的第一层完全干透。

With theMinwax®擦涂聚，你把它用抹布。你穿上大衣更薄，但你通常可以回去在大约两到三个小时内的第二层，两到三个小时的时间你的第三个外套等。为了获得与Minwax®擦涂的最终保障保利，我一般使用4点或5的大衣，但我可以做所有那些在一天。而对，它要休息两天，即使你只穿着两件衣服刷。

它真的可以归结为个人喜好的问题，因为当你完成所有操作，你仍然会有很好的保护聚氨酯。在擦上要给你更多的是手擦一下，而刷上是要给你一个稍重的涂层，它会建立更多的表面上。当它归结为耐久性，刷的两件衣服上都将是强一点点一点点比Minwax®擦涂保利更耐用。所以，如果它的东西是要接受大量的使用和滥用，我会去聚氨酯刷。如果这件事情我想给更多的用手摩擦一下，而且它不会采取了很多的虐待，那么我将不得不端起Minwax®擦涂聚。

Purple Heart has a common characteristic with a lot of more exotic woods: it has a high natural oil content. Teak is another wood that we're probably more familiar with that has a lot of its own natural oils. You'll know it from working with it: when you're cutting or sanding it, it will just have a more oily appearance. The thing that I've learned over the years is that the best thing you can add to oil, is more oil. So I'll tend to use one of the 3 Minwax® wipe-on oils: theMinwax®桐油,Minwax®Antique Oil, or theMinwax®擦涂聚。

没有在三者之间外观差异显著。Minwax®古董石油将永远给你一个更缎面效果，所以如果我有古董或者说我想看看旧的东西的工作，我会经常使用仿古油。该Minwax®桐油优惠与其说是缎面效应，以及Minwax®擦涂保利给你做一个高光泽的能力，如果这就是你要找的是什么，或者你可以用缎看起来像是去以及与Minwax®擦涂聚。我会去的三个穿透油与上完成刷之一。一个与具有大量的天然油的木材关注的是，在油刷是不会与木材的天然油兼容。也许这只是没有足够的空孔抱住，它可能有一种倾向，芯片或剥离的道路。因此，当你与油性木材加工，更多的油添加到它。

Ten times out of ten I would go for a brush on version, such asMinwax®快干聚urethane。我会刷上两个或三个大衣，第三大衣依赖于第二层是否让你连的光泽很好。

其中的原因有很多我喜欢的Minwax®快干聚氨酯是，如果6个月或6年后，我走进房间，并认识到终点开始看起来有点磨损，我可以带Minwax®擦涂聚and apply a thin coat over the top of the original brush on poly without having to get out a brush. You just open up the can, pour it on, work it in with a soft rag, let it soak in for a few minutes and then wipe it off. Two hours later it's dry and your table looks like you refinished it but all you did was really just add another coat of polyurethane using a rag, so I would go with Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane and then keep the Minwax® Wipe-On Poly on hand for touch-ups as needed.

“镶木地板”的意思是板，以几何图案布置，所以你没有粮食跑直降了房间。你不能使用电动打磨从镶木地板去除漆面。你从字面上把它当作一件家具。试想一下，一个房间的大型仿古桌面！我会推荐给剥去老光洁度。该类型的饰面是要确定你要使用什么类型的化学卸妆。如果它是一个老房子，你已经有了一个老虫胶或旧漆面漆，它可能是Formby's® Furniture Refinisherwill dissolve that and take it off, and you can do that using Scotchbrite® pads. They last a little bit longer and are not as messy as steel wool. But, if it is the more modern polyurethane finish, the furniture refinisher won't cut through it as well as theFormby's® Paint and Poly Remover。

我建议首先得到Formby's®家具表面整修的小即可。去到房间的一个角落里或壁橱内，做一个测试，看看如果漆面容易脱落只是穿上抹布表面整修和擦点。如果是的话，那么你可以使用Formby's®家具表面整修做到这一点。

If it doesn't make a dent in the finish, then you know that you've got polyurethane and you're going to need a paint and poly remover. Nevertheless, you'll take the same steps as if you are refinishing an antique. First you'll strip the old finish off, then sand the floor using a fine sandpaper, 180 or above. Note that if there's any finish left at all, the fine sandpaper is going to plug up very quickly and you're going to ruin a lot of sandpaper. Therefore, this is one of the circumstances where sometimes you're almost better off stripping it twice, so that you have very little sanding to do before you come back with a clear coat of finish to lock it all in and make the floor look beautiful. It's worth the extra effort because parquet floors are considered a sign of quality, both in terms of the amount of workmanship it took to make them originally, and the amount of work you have to put in to refinish them as well.

The fist thing you have to do is to realize that you're not actually going to be putting the stain into the wood. This is one of those circumstances where we're going to break the rules. If you're going to stencil a floor, you want to put your first coat of theMinwax®Polyurethane for Floors在裸露的木材，所以你实际上已经密封的木材。

Then I prefer to useMinwax®凝胶染色。凝胶染色是一种油基污迹，真实重比典型的浓郁Minwax®木器涂料™penetrating stain, which has a tendency to run a little bit more simply because it's designed to penetrate into the wood. In this case, we want to hold the stain on top of that first coat of finish and I prefer to use one of the Minwax® Gel Stain colors for that. Let the first coat dry, mask off the section if you are doing a straight line all the way around the room or doing a geometric pattern, lay it out with masking tape, and make sure your masking tape is pressed very well against the first coat of finish.

然后我们要打破另一个规则:你是not going to use a brush. When you use a brush to apply stain next to masking tape, the bristles of the brush are trying to force the stain underneath the masking tape. To avoid that, get a sea sponge. These are big, heavy open-pored sponges, better than just a household sponge. Put a little bit of the sea sponge into the stain, then dab off most of the stain onto a paper towel before you start dabbing it onto the area that you want to stencil. Put on your stain in a thin coat because if you get too much stain, it's going to run underneath your masking tape. Let it dry, then come back and dab on a little bit more. The nice thing about it is, you can determine how dark it's going to be by how many layers of stain you're putting on.

In addition, keep in mind you still want to see the grain of the wood coming through. The idea of stenciling is generally to give the appearance of having two different species of wood in the same floor. So if you've got an oak floor and you want to make it look like you had a border in walnut, then you'd use a darker Minwax® Gel Stain to give that impression. Once your stain has dried, peel off the masking tape, then sandwich the stain in with another coat of Minwax® Polyurethane for Floors. When you're all done, you're going to have one polyurethane layer on the floor, the layer of stain, and then another layer of finish, so your stencil is in a sandwich of two layers of Minwax® Polyurethane for Floors.

你必须非常小心你用什么作为溶剂去除旧胶，和你想的排序在这里使用的一些溶剂。我通常用矿物油精开始，尝试，第一。有时，油漆稀释剂会奏效。这只是取决于，而且没有哪个溶剂上班预测的方式，因为做出了不同的胶粘剂每家公司都会有它不同的溶剂。有没有办法知道溶剂是没有什么试验。

这是您要使用的溶剂，并务必阅读就可以了预防措施，这些案件之一。大多数溶剂需要良好的通风，你可以打开的门，窗，设置了风扇和空气有吹通过源源不断。佩戴呼吸器和手套，采取安全防范措施，因为溶剂用于溶解那些老胶水是有毒的。他们可以非常有效地工作，但你必须采取必要的预防措施，以确保它们不会导致你的任何问题。

The other alternative of course would be sanding it off, but sanding paper is going to gum up with that old residue so quickly that you will have to spend a lot of money on sanding belts before you see any progress at all. So the answer is going to be: experiment with some different solvents, find the one that works, but do make sure you are reading and following all the safety precautions on whatever can of solvent you end up using.

You could say cork is wood in one sense. It has the same properties, it is very porous. And cork is making a comeback now along with bamboo. The property of cork that makes it desirable for a floor is the fact that it has a little bit of sponginess to it. The cork itself though, as you know from just messing with cork, whether it's on wine or on something else, is not very durable, so it tends to wear down quickly. One place I wouldn't use it would be in an office with a chair with rollers on it, where you're rolling back and forth, because it will very quickly wear down.

再回到这个问题，你可以使用聚氨酯，你会采取把一个完成的橡木或枫木地板相同的方法。我会使用Minwax®Polyurethane for Floors。You might find though that instead of the typical two coats, you might be putting on 3 or even 4 coats, depending on how open and how porous the cork is. If you see dull, dead spots when you stand at one end of the room looking towards a source of light at the opposite end, that means the Cork or the wood has absorbed all the finish in that spot and it needs more finish. This rule of thumb applies to any project you're working on. Look toward the strongest source of light. When you're doing any sort of finish work, you should always be facing the strongest source of light, whether that's through a window, a door, or a spotlight you've set up. You don't want the light coming over your shoulder - you want the light facing you so you can see any spots you missed, any runs or any drips. When you get it to the point where you see an even sheen all the way across the floor, then you know that you're done. This means that the last coat of finish is laying on top of the wood rather than being soaked down into it. But with cork that might be 3 or even 4 coats, just depending on how much is going to soak in.