Q&A with Wood Finishing Expert布鲁斯·约翰逊
Repairing white rings or water stains
The white ring is moisture that has been absorbed by the finish. When you do get white rings appearing, this is a sign that the finish is wearing out and losing its ability to repel moisture. The heat from this cup of tea softened the finish and allowed the moisture to get into the top layer of finish. In this case, since it is a new white ring, sometimes you can be successful using a hairdryer on the low/warm setting to evaporate that moisture back out. However, if you have a piece of furniture with a white ring that has been in there for some time, we need a little bit of abrasiveness to remove it. I usually get a pad of 4-0 steel wool - the finest steel wool they make. The steel wool by itself is going to leave scratches, so I first pour onto the white ring a finishing product, usuallyMinwax®Antique Oil要么Minwax®擦涂聚，然后用4-0钢丝绒对油的顶部轻轻磨蚀的表面。拿一块抹布，擦掉它，检查它，渐渐你会看到白色的圈消失。然后取Minwax®擦涂聚或Minwax®古董石油和去在桌子上的整个表面，因为说白圈表示终点磨损。它需要完成的另一个外衣，以防止再次发生。
What is the best way to repair a scratch in my dining room table?
先假设我们不希望to refinish the table; we just want to make that scratch disappear. The solution is going to depend on how deep it is. If it's just a shallow scratch, something that just removed a little bit of the finish but hasn't removed any wood, then my recommendation would be theMinwax®木器涂料染色™标记s。These are little miniature felt pens with miniature cans of wood stain inside them and they come in the 8 most popular Minwax® colors. You can generally find a stain marker that's going to match the color of the table. Then using the felt tip on the stain marker you can very carefully fill in the missing color. If you get a little bit on the outside where you don't want it, just take a rag and wipe it off.
如果划痕已经渗透到木材，那么我们需要真正把一些物质在那里，因为我们不打算整修表，我会建议Minwax®Wood Putty。It comes in 10 different colors. You just take the end of your finger, pick the color that's going to match the closest, rub it into the scratch, take a rag and wipe off the excess. This will level it out with the rest of the table.
Recognizing authenticity of antique furniture
I have some old furniture that looks Mission to me. How can I tell if it really is of that style and period, or if it's just a modernist knock off?
只是有足够的练习任何人都可以走出去，建立一个工艺品/使命橡树色。Minwax®已作出更容易了。认识工艺美术的普及，他们已经增加了三个以上的颜色 - 美国板栗，使命橡树，以及经典黑色 - 他们PolyShades®line. Getting the look of an Arts and Crafts piece is much easier now than it ever was before.
知道了一块是否是正品是不会来自看颜色 - 这将是着眼于建设。把它倒过来，寻找搬弄是非的线索。“菲利普斯”头螺钉，例如，将不会在一个真实的一块艺术和手工艺家具的发现。“飞利浦”头螺钉都没有出台，直到20年代末和你的好工艺品家具都是之前进行再。寻找新鲜胶水，新的建筑，它的下面或在它的时候有人提出，一块的一些指示后的任何迹象。
Repairing raised grain
I recently did some ironing on a towel placed over an oak dresser. The finish still looks okay, but I can really feel the grain. How can I repair the texture?
So what I would do is take some 220 sand paper and very lightly, with just the tips of your fingertips, sand the finish. Note that you only want to sand the finish - not the wood. Do not sand through the finish! The 220 sandpaper is just going to sand that roughness off the top layer of finish. Run your fingertips over, and when it's nice and smooth, take a cloth, wipe off all the dust, and then put another coat of finish back on. In the case of an antique, where we've already got some finish on but we want to build up some more finish, I would recommend usingMinwax®Antique Oil或者Minwax®桐油。他们俩给你更多的仿古效果，却会给你很好的保护。
Revitalizing older furniture without refinishing
The first thing you want to do is make sure, like that old physician's adage, first do no harm. You don't want to use a harsh cleaner. Don't suddenly just grab ammonia, or any sort of cleaner, TSP, even mineral spirits. I would not use any of those because old finishes can be rather fragile, and you might find that instead of cleaning it you're actually stripping it. That's going to make a bigger job for you, and the piece is worth less when you're done with it than if you'd left that old finish intact. So the first thing I would do would be to just give it a very careful cleaning. Make sure you're using a product likeMinwax®实木柜清洁- 它有一个方便的触发喷雾。使用专门为木质设计的，不是你通常用它来清洁您的地板，如氨木材清洁剂。只需使用Minwax®伍德清洁和柔软的抹布，清洁掉黏糊糊的，与工作有关的小部分在同一时间。这不，当你在一个大着急，你做一些事情。
Once you get it clean, the original finish, whether it's shellac or an early form of lacquer, needs some protection. If the piece has a lot of scratches on it, you can go back and useMinwax®木器涂料染色™标记s触摸你的划痕。如果你喜欢划痕的外观和考虑的一块性格的一部分，那就不要对他们担心，因为你还打算把在那里完成的又一个外套，你可以在两个一去根据您的个人喜好的方向。
当保持一个古色古香的光洁度，我建议使用Minwax®Paste Finishing Wax。可以用抹布应用它，它蹭上柴，让它干燥但不完全硬化，然后BUFF它关闭。这稀糊状蜡涂层将密封原有的光洁度，但不会显着改变它的外观。
The other option you have, if you like rubbing on oils rather than rubbing out paste wax, you can go withMinwax®桐油要么Minwax®Antique Oil。任何那些将是可接受的，并且优选的是砂磨它，重新涂饰它，甚至把Minwax®快速干燥聚氨酯的涂层就可以了。我不会做。在这样的情况下，这将是蜡，桐油，或古董油，细心的清洗之后。
Refinishing a veneer table
I would like to refinish a Rosewood veneer end table. Should I strip the existing finish and should I apply a sealer before I finish with an antique oil finish?
Okay, so we've got Rosewood and we've got veneer. By veneer meaning that we've got a sheet of Rosewood that may only be a 16th, maybe even a 32nd of an inch thick. That means that we have to rule out any sort of abrasive sanding, and it also means we rule out any sort of a stripper or remover that may require water as a rinse. Water can seep underneath the veneer and soften the glue to the point where the veneer actually starts to loosen at the ends, or it can seep right into the middle where there might be a joint between two pieces of veneer. With any sort of paint and poly remover, do not use water as the final rinse. I always useFormby's®涂料和聚卸妆或Formby's®油漆和聚卸妆洗净, which does not contain water. That way you're not introducing water into the equation. So for getting the old finish off, it means no stripper that requires water as a rinse and no heavy sanding because you don't want to sand through that very thin sheet of veneer.
As far as the final finish goes, a sanding sealer is optional. If I was usingMinwax®Antique Oil, I would probably not use the sanding sealer. Instead, once I got the wood completely stripped and lightly sanded so it was all nice and smooth, I would probably start by applying the first of maybe 3 or 4 coats of Minwax® Antique Oil to give it a great hand-rubbed effect. And with the rosewood having a lot of oil content of its own. You may find that 2 or 3 coats are all that it needs to saturate all of the pores with the oil. What I would do is go back every six months or so, anytime it starts to look a little bit dry and worn, get out a can of Minwax® Antique Oil and spread another coat on it.
Not necessarily. A sanding sealer is a coat of finish specifically designed to dry very quickly and sand very easily. You see sanding sealers used the most on floors, because a contractor or a do-it-yourselfer can put down a coat of sanding sealer, and it's going to dry quickly and sand more easily than if you had just put on your first coat ofMinwax®快干聚urethane要么Minwax®Polyurethane for Floors。换句话说，当时间是最重要的，一个打磨填就派上用场了。但是，如果你不想使用打磨封口机，它不是完全可以接受的。你会直接将您完成的第一层的木材。相反，在短短的几个小时的事干燥的，通常你必须让它干燥过夜，回来的第二天，沙淡然，并把您完成的第二层。所以它的时间与在打磨填的可以投资的所有问题。
Color matching on wood filler
Can you create specialty stain wood filler that will match an odd color material?
Getting a wood filler that will accept the stain either wet or dry has always been a challenge. You want a material that is going to dry extremely hard, yet at the same time after it's dry, you want it to accept the stain. I useMinwax®Stainable Wood Filler因为我发现，它涉及最接近的，给我来匹配它的最佳机会。它的干燥后，可染Minwax木材填料具有天然木材的用暗黄的颜色。它将比任何我曾经合作过的其他合成填料更容易被接受的一个污点。
这并不意味着你不需要做一些experimentation. One of the things I always keep in my shop are those inexpensive artist brushes. While the Stainable Wood Filler accepts the stain, it may not always accept it identical to the pores of the wood immediately surrounding it. So take your artist brush with a little bit of stain, dab it on there, let it sit on the filler for 5 or 6 minutes to soak in deep enough, wipe it off with the end of a cotton swab, and then check your color. If it isn't quite right, you can always add a little bit more color to it. That's the great thing about the Minwax® oil-based stains - they give you the ability to work with them whether you're mixing them together on top of the surface or even before you apply them, but they'll do a lot better than any of the homemade remedies I've ever messed with.
不要觉得不好，因为我已经看到了由专业木工制作帧的差距 - 和我。所不同的是，专业人士都知道如何掩饰其斜接缝的间隙。我更喜欢使用Minwax®Stainable Wood Fillerrather than the old sawdust-and-glue mixture, simply because the Stainable Wood Filler dries quickly, is easy to sand and accepts a stain better than anything else I have tried. To help the patch blend into the surrounding wood, be careful not to overspread the filler.
We are struggling to get the last of a coat of white paint out of the pores of the fancy turned legs on an English Tudor style table we want to use in our dining room. The stripper removed most of the paint, but now we are trying to sand off the rest. The problem is the paint is deep in the pores of the wood. Should we keep sanding or strip it again?
Strip it again! This time follow these tips: First, use a high- quality stripper, such asFormby's® Paint and Poly Remover。二，报考油漆和聚卸妆的厚重的大衣，然后用蜡纸覆盖它减缓卸妆的蒸发。最后，漆后与保利卸妆有足够的时间来软化最后的油漆，用小铜毛刷（不是硬标准钢丝刷！）撞出软化油漆从毛孔。你可以找到黄铜猪鬃刷，不会划伤木，附近的户外烧烤在您当地的五金商店。
If you do have to stain it, I would strongly recommend two coats ofMinwax®Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner。This is going to help even out the absorption of the stain. Apply Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner and let it soak in for 5 to 15 minutes (usually 15 minutes), removing any excess. Apply second coat accordingly.
最后，不要试着让枫样子核桃或其他一些深色木材。如果你想有一个核桃书柜或胡桃木茶几，购买核桃。If you are going to stain maple, stain it with one of the lighter colors - Minwax® Golden Pecan or Minwax® Golden Oak. Lighter colors won't tend to show the blotchiness as much.
Matching new stained wood to an existing piece
Yes, it is just trial and error. One of the things I recommend if you're doing much matching is to buy several of the smallest sized cans of stains you can find. One of the great things aboutMinwax®木器涂料™油性污渍是，它是在26种颜色可供选择。美妙的事情是，你可以将它们混合在一起创造了许多不同的颜色。先从你的色卡。尽量找一个来尽可能接近并将其应用到你的木材。它比较旧的结束，决定是否需要更红一点或一点点褐色等，然后应用更多的污点。
一个提示，匹配颜色：请注意，该面漆是要增添色彩的一点点好，特别是油基之一。为了获得真正的色彩搭配，它不只是一个看它时，你有你的存在染色问题。你必须让你的污渍干燥，可采取气雾剂，雾完成超过一点点，和比较，为在你要匹配 - 因为完成你戴上的那最后一点是要影响颜色为好。
让我们与他们的相似之处开始。两者都是油性污渍，这意味着它们含有矿物烈酒和清理用矿物油精。Minwax®木器涂料™penetrating stains, available in 26 colors, tend to penetrate deeper into the wood.Minwax®凝胶染色s, available in 10 different colors, are formulated a little bit differently. There is actually a gelatin appearance to them and when you first open up the lid of the can, it's a little bit shocking to see this gelatin jiggling around in there. Stirring is essential with all stains - oil, water, gel, regular - because the pigments tend to settle to the bottom of the can while sitting on the shelf. So stir it up very well, and the gelatin will become a little bit more liquid in form, but it will still maintain that gel-like consistency.
One reason why Minwax® came up with Gel Stain is that if you're working on a vertical surface, such as paneling in a room or doors, it's just not practical to take them all down and put them on sawhorses. If you have to work on a vertical surface and if you were using the standard Minwax® Wood Finish™ penetrating stain, the thinner of the two, you'd be chasing that stain as it ran ahead of your brush. If you weren't fast enough you could actually get some slightly darker streaks from the stain that ran down the wood instead of actually penetrating into the wood.
If you use Minwax® Gel Stain, it's going to cling to the wood better and you're not going to have it running down ahead of your brush or ahead of your rag, so your staining is going to be more consistent. Also, if you're doing a metal or a fiberglass door, Minwax® Gel Stain is formulated to adhere to these non-porous surfaces, whereas Minwax® Wood Finish™ stain would wipe right off. Generally, if it's a vertical surface, or if it's a surface that doesn't have any pores to it, those would be when you want to use Minwax® Gel Stains. So you aren't limited, you can use Minwax® Gel Stain in several different applications, even though it's especially designed for vertical application.
Removing stain from skin
I had this situation - I had the glove on one hand but I didn't have the glove on the other hand, and sure enough that's where all the stain ended up. I just came in and gave it a good scrubbing with soap and water. It takes a few extra seconds - it doesn't just instantly rub right off with warm water and soap. Squirt a little liquid hand soap and it will soften up the stain and just come right off the skin. I do tell people that even though we think about water-based as no fumes, easy clean-up, it's still a good idea to wear gloves. These stains are designed to be absorbed, and the stain doesn't know the difference between trying to absorb into your skin versus trying to absorb into your project, so it's always a good idea to wear gloves but it's not a major concern. It's going to wash off pretty easily.
The last time I stained a piece of unfinished oak furniture I had a problem with stain seeping back out of the wood. I applied the stain as directed, let it soak into the wood for about four minutes, then wiped off the excess stain. I came back the next day to apply a polyurethane finish and I was surprised to find several spots of stain all over the wood. It looked like chicken pox. I was able to scrub them off with mineral spirits, but don't want to go through it again. Any solution?
What you're describing is "bleed-back." It is not uncommon with open-pored woods, such as oak, ash and mahogany, especially on vertical surfaces. The larger pores in these woods act as containers for the stain, which collects in the pores, but does not dry. Instead, it gradually seeps out of the pores, leaving the spots you so aptly described. The solution is simple: After you have wiped off the excess stain, take a clean bristle brush and lightly brush the tips of the bristles over the wood. As you will see, the bristle tips will pull the extra stain out of these deep pores. You can then remove the last of the excess stain with a clean cloth.
I have been reading about the advantages of kit furniture, which sound very appealing. I understand, too, why it would be easier to stain the individual parts before you assemble it, but I have a question: Wouldn't the stain interfere with the glue's ability to work on the joints when you assemble it?
良好的出发点！做污点密封孔洞的木材 - 和胶水有效地依赖于开放的毛孔工作。出于这个原因，我总是包裹掩蔽围绕主轴，腿和我稍后胶保持污渍掉任何部件的端部带。出于同样的原因，我也的东西，会收到这些零件用小块纸巾保持污渍脱离孔。然后，当我准备组装一块，我拉过遮蔽胶带和纸巾。这些关键领域是那么干净，无密封，并准备接受胶水。
I sometimes get bubbles in my finish. What am I doing wrong?
There are three sources of the air bubbles. The first one can be in your brush. If you're using a foam brush to put on a finish, you are actually putting air into the finish, so eliminate foam brushes from your list of tools for applying a finish. Foam brushes are great for applying a stain, but you need to go to a bristle brush for applying a finish.
If you do have to stain it, I would strongly recommend two coats of Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. This is going to help even out the absorption of the stain. Apply Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner and let it soak in for 5 to 15 minutes (usually 15 minutes), removing any excess. Apply second coat accordingly.
最后，不要试着让枫样子核桃或其他一些深色木材。如果你想有一个核桃书柜或胡桃木茶几，购买核桃。Minwax®木器涂料金山核桃或Minwax®木器涂料金橡树 - 如果你要染色枫木，用浅色的一个会留下污点。较浅的颜色不会倾向于显示色斑一样多。
What is the best finish for wooden windows, especially in a climate with a lot of rain and humidity?
威斯康辛州还是佛罗里达,水分,风,and sunlight all add up to windowsills taking a lot of abuse. We're talking about the interior windowsills here. If you put on standardMinwax®快干聚urethane，阳光的透过玻璃，紫外线，和偶尔的水分来的组合是要戴列于窗台聚氨酯比在房子的内部的其余部分更快。因此，当涉及到窗台，我一般从标准Minwax®快干聚氨酯切换到另一个名为Minwax®产品Helmsman® Spar Urethane。Helmsman®是内部或外部晶石聚氨酯，这意味着它有更多的耐紫外线和水分，这是一个伟大的完成放在窗台上，因为在它和你做板的其余部分之间的外观没有区别在常规聚氨酯。
樱桃是我最喜欢的木材之一。它实际上属于同一类别枫在樱桃不吸收的污点非常好。与枫木，樱桃木有了这样一个美丽的颜色偏红它实际上变成因为它的年龄更倾向于褐色。通常情况下，人们不染色樱桃 - 他们只是让自然的色彩才能通过。我最喜欢的樱桃饰面是手擦完成。在这种情况下，由于该表要由儿童使用，我建议Minwax®擦涂聚。You get that hand rubbed effect and the polyurethane that is added by the Minwax® Wipe-On Poly gives it more durability than your other rub-on oils, such as tung oil or antique oil. Both of them are great oils, but since this is going to receive some extra hard use, I would go with the Minwax® Wipe-On Poly. It gives you the hand rubbed look, yet you get the same durability and protection as you would with polyurethanes.
Water-based vs. oil-based polyurethane
这不是一个选择一个或其他的问题using only that one, because that limits you. You should pick whether you're going to use oil-based or water-based with other criteria in mind than just whether you think you're an oil-based person or a water-based person. For instance, if you're working inside and you can't ventilate very well (during winter time, for example), then the water-based has the advantage that you don't have to ventilate. When you're working on large surfaces though, and you need a good long working time, I prefer the oil-based finishes because the stains don't set up as quickly. You get about 15 minutes of working time with the oil-based stains before you have to wipe them off compared to 1 to 3 minutes with the water-based stains. So in addition to whether or not you can ventilate, the size of your project is going to have some determination on which one you choose.
颜色也成为一个因素。如果你想用的一个Minwax®Water Based Wood Staincolors, then I would go with a water-based clear protective finish such asMinwax®Polycrylic™ Protective Finish, over the top of it. So let your projects and your circumstances help you determine whether or not you're going to use water-based or oil-based and don't limit yourself to using one or the other on every one of your projects.
Wipe-on vs. brush-on polyurethane
Recommended finishes for purple heart
What finish do you recommend for Purple Heart?
Purple Heart has a common characteristic with a lot of more exotic woods: it has a high natural oil content. Teak is another wood that we're probably more familiar with that has a lot of its own natural oils. You'll know it from working with it: when you're cutting or sanding it, it will just have a more oily appearance. The thing that I've learned over the years is that the best thing you can add to oil, is more oil. So I'll tend to use one of the 3 Minwax® wipe-on oils: theMinwax®桐油,Minwax®Antique Oil, or theMinwax®擦涂聚。
What is the best finish for a heavily used table that will be exposed to food and water spills?
Ten times out of ten I would go for a brush on version, such asMinwax®快干聚urethane。我会刷上两个或三个大衣，第三大衣依赖于第二层是否让你连的光泽很好。
其中的原因有很多我喜欢的Minwax®快干聚氨酯是，如果6个月或6年后，我走进房间，并认识到终点开始看起来有点磨损，我可以带Minwax®擦涂聚and apply a thin coat over the top of the original brush on poly without having to get out a brush. You just open up the can, pour it on, work it in with a soft rag, let it soak in for a few minutes and then wipe it off. Two hours later it's dry and your table looks like you refinished it but all you did was really just add another coat of polyurethane using a rag, so I would go with Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane and then keep the Minwax® Wipe-On Poly on hand for touch-ups as needed.
How would I handle fish eyes in my finish?
For those who are unfamiliar with this term, a fish eye got its name because it's a crater in the finish about the size of a fish eye. It's caused by having any sort of a contaminant on the wood that the finish won't stick to. I remember one time carrying a piece of furniture from my shop into the spray booth and a drip of sweat off the end of my nose dripped onto the wood. I took my sleeve and I thought I wiped it off, but obviously there was some oil in that sweat and when I sprayed lacquer on, I got this beautiful fish eye right over where that drop of oily sweat landed on the wood. So any time you have a contaminant on the wood (it can be wax or silicone from aerosol polishes), the finish will group around it, creating a crater instead of drying over the top of it, and it's called a fish eye.
The best way to prevent it? Right before you are putting on your finish (let's say you're going to use an oil base finish), take a cloth moistened with mineral spirits, the solvent for oil base, and just wipe the top down. That way if there was any sort of contaminant, the mineral spirits would take it off. If you're using lacquer, you'd want to do the same thing using lacquer thinner to wipe it down, so that anything that may have fallen on there would be removed.
Fish eyes generally occur when people are using lacquer. Lacquer is a very sensitive finish - more sensitive than the polyurethanes. You don't get fish eyes very often with polyurethane, although you can. What do you do when it does happen? There's nothing you can do until the finish dries. Let it dry, then take your 220 sandpaper and sand the entire surface lightly - you're not trying to sand it all off. When you get to the area where the fish eye is, you've got to give it some extra attention and do two things. Sand it lightly but then still take a rag with some mineral spirits on it and clean that area very well. If that contaminant was still exposed, it'll be removed, so when you put your second coat, it will flow right over it and the fish eye will disappear.
parq整修表面的最简单方法是什么uet floor? I'm assuming a floor sander cannot be used because of the alternating grain pattern.
“镶木地板”的意思是板，以几何图案布置，所以你没有粮食跑直降了房间。你不能使用电动打磨从镶木地板去除漆面。你从字面上把它当作一件家具。试想一下，一个房间的大型仿古桌面！我会推荐给剥去老光洁度。该类型的饰面是要确定你要使用什么类型的化学卸妆。如果它是一个老房子，你已经有了一个老虫胶或旧漆面漆，它可能是Formby's® Furniture Refinisherwill dissolve that and take it off, and you can do that using Scotchbrite® pads. They last a little bit longer and are not as messy as steel wool. But, if it is the more modern polyurethane finish, the furniture refinisher won't cut through it as well as theFormby's® Paint and Poly Remover。
If it doesn't make a dent in the finish, then you know that you've got polyurethane and you're going to need a paint and poly remover. Nevertheless, you'll take the same steps as if you are refinishing an antique. First you'll strip the old finish off, then sand the floor using a fine sandpaper, 180 or above. Note that if there's any finish left at all, the fine sandpaper is going to plug up very quickly and you're going to ruin a lot of sandpaper. Therefore, this is one of the circumstances where sometimes you're almost better off stripping it twice, so that you have very little sanding to do before you come back with a clear coat of finish to lock it all in and make the floor look beautiful. It's worth the extra effort because parquet floors are considered a sign of quality, both in terms of the amount of workmanship it took to make them originally, and the amount of work you have to put in to refinish them as well.
Creating stenciled patterns
How can you stencil on a wood floor without the stain bleeding?
The fist thing you have to do is to realize that you're not actually going to be putting the stain into the wood. This is one of those circumstances where we're going to break the rules. If you're going to stencil a floor, you want to put your first coat of theMinwax®Polyurethane for Floors在裸露的木材，所以你实际上已经密封的木材。
Then I prefer to useMinwax®凝胶染色。凝胶染色是一种油基污迹，真实重比典型的浓郁Minwax®木器涂料™penetrating stain, which has a tendency to run a little bit more simply because it's designed to penetrate into the wood. In this case, we want to hold the stain on top of that first coat of finish and I prefer to use one of the Minwax® Gel Stain colors for that. Let the first coat dry, mask off the section if you are doing a straight line all the way around the room or doing a geometric pattern, lay it out with masking tape, and make sure your masking tape is pressed very well against the first coat of finish.
然后我们要打破另一个规则:你是not going to use a brush. When you use a brush to apply stain next to masking tape, the bristles of the brush are trying to force the stain underneath the masking tape. To avoid that, get a sea sponge. These are big, heavy open-pored sponges, better than just a household sponge. Put a little bit of the sea sponge into the stain, then dab off most of the stain onto a paper towel before you start dabbing it onto the area that you want to stencil. Put on your stain in a thin coat because if you get too much stain, it's going to run underneath your masking tape. Let it dry, then come back and dab on a little bit more. The nice thing about it is, you can determine how dark it's going to be by how many layers of stain you're putting on.
In addition, keep in mind you still want to see the grain of the wood coming through. The idea of stenciling is generally to give the appearance of having two different species of wood in the same floor. So if you've got an oak floor and you want to make it look like you had a border in walnut, then you'd use a darker Minwax® Gel Stain to give that impression. Once your stain has dried, peel off the masking tape, then sandwich the stain in with another coat of Minwax® Polyurethane for Floors. When you're all done, you're going to have one polyurethane layer on the floor, the layer of stain, and then another layer of finish, so your stencil is in a sandwich of two layers of Minwax® Polyurethane for Floors.
Restoring a wood floor covered with linoleum
The other alternative of course would be sanding it off, but sanding paper is going to gum up with that old residue so quickly that you will have to spend a lot of money on sanding belts before you see any progress at all. So the answer is going to be: experiment with some different solvents, find the one that works, but do make sure you are reading and following all the safety precautions on whatever can of solvent you end up using.
You could say cork is wood in one sense. It has the same properties, it is very porous. And cork is making a comeback now along with bamboo. The property of cork that makes it desirable for a floor is the fact that it has a little bit of sponginess to it. The cork itself though, as you know from just messing with cork, whether it's on wine or on something else, is not very durable, so it tends to wear down quickly. One place I wouldn't use it would be in an office with a chair with rollers on it, where you're rolling back and forth, because it will very quickly wear down.
再回到这个问题，你可以使用聚氨酯，你会采取把一个完成的橡木或枫木地板相同的方法。我会使用Minwax®Polyurethane for Floors。You might find though that instead of the typical two coats, you might be putting on 3 or even 4 coats, depending on how open and how porous the cork is. If you see dull, dead spots when you stand at one end of the room looking towards a source of light at the opposite end, that means the Cork or the wood has absorbed all the finish in that spot and it needs more finish. This rule of thumb applies to any project you're working on. Look toward the strongest source of light. When you're doing any sort of finish work, you should always be facing the strongest source of light, whether that's through a window, a door, or a spotlight you've set up. You don't want the light coming over your shoulder - you want the light facing you so you can see any spots you missed, any runs or any drips. When you get it to the point where you see an even sheen all the way across the floor, then you know that you're done. This means that the last coat of finish is laying on top of the wood rather than being soaked down into it. But with cork that might be 3 or even 4 coats, just depending on how much is going to soak in.
Sanding a wood floor for refinishing
I agree that wrestling one of those powerful sanders around the room is not my idea of a good time. Fortunately it's not your only option. If the floor has unsightly scratches, you can use a small sander to remove both the old finish and the scratches. You can rent either a standing orbital sander or a regular hand-held belt sander, both of which are easier to handle than the powerful standing floor sanders. These alternative sanders will require some extra time, but your floor will look just as beautiful-if not better-than one sanded with a floor sander.